
Carnivorous plants, or insect-eating plants,
are specially adapted to survive in poor soils. To make up for the lack of nutrients in
the soil, they are designed to catch and digest animals (usually insects). They’re not as rare as you might think –
there are nearly a thousand different species and they’re found on every
continent except Antarctica.
They’re also not as hard to grow as you might think – once you know some
basic information. Plus, they’re a
lot more fun than regular house plants!
My first experience with carnivorous plants
(CP) was seeing little ads in the back of comic books and
"Boy's Life" magazine offering "flesh-eating plants!" As a teenager I bought my first Venus
Fly-Trap, which died after a few weeks. It wasn't until I discovered a good book
at the local library that I’ve had more success. I'm now in my 30's and my collection
consists mostly of North American Pitcher Plants (Sarracenia), various Sundews
(Drosera), a few flytraps, and miscellaneous others. Most of my plants do best when I grow
them outside, rather than inside as house plants. I'm currently living in the Los Angeles area of Southern California (San Fernando Valley) but have previously grown CPs in Salt Lake City, Utah. The climate in both locations is fairly similar, although Salt Lake City is much colder in the winter, but both are basically hot and dry and not particularly ideal for CP, but they grow well enough in spite of the low humidity. I'm happy to offer what help I can if you are trying to grow CPs in similar circumstances.
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Basic Growing Tips for
Beginners
Following are some growing tips based on my own observations and what I’ve learned from others. In particular, these tips may be most useful to those attempting to grow Sarracenia, VFTs, and most Drosera in less than ideal conditions. I strongly recommend getting a good book like "The Savage Garden" by Peter D'Amato. Not all books at the local library will have reliable information. Some other authors I can recommend (although they might be hard to find) are Adrian Slack and Don Schnell. Above all, you should take into account your local conditions when determining how to apply these tips and others.
Water. Typically, CPs are native to
wet, boggy areas, so they'll prefer to be much wetter than regular
houseplants. Many will even prefer to be left frequently standing in
water. I use rain water that I collect from the rain gutters on the house
and store it in a 32 gallon plastic trash can with a lid. Distilled or RO
(reverse osmosis) water is also very good but can be expensive (be careful not
to use mineral water or "drinking" water). Regular tap water is usually
not suitable for CPs as it often contains high amounts of dissolved solids and
added chemicals such as chlorine. It might be a good idea to call your
local water department and ask about the water in your area before using much
tap water. In particular, ask about the tds (total dissolved solids).
In my Salt Lake City neighborhood the tds varied throughout the year, from a low of
about 100 tds around December, to a high of just over 300 tds in August and
September (when the water supply draws more heavily from underground
wells). Generally, water should be under 100 tds before you regularly use
it on your CPs.
Light. Most CPs like lots of
light. Sarracenia, most Drosera, and VFTs do best with bright
sunshine. Nepenthes and some
Pinguicula will prefer some shading. My plants do best outside (in spite
of the low humidity here) where they usually get several hours of direct
sunshine. A bright windowsill will also work, but be aware that
temperatures can get high when the sun is shining on your plants. I've also
grown many plants under fluorescent lights, which do not generate a lot of
heat. Reflectors placed around the lights and plants will help to increase
the light on the plants.
Soil. Carnivorous plants are native
to poor soils, so regular potting soil is generally not suitable. I prefer
peat moss mixed with white silica sand (the kind used for sandblasting) which is
about the cheapest mix. I usually mix it about 1:1 peat/sand, or 2:1
peat/sand for a mix that won't dry out as quickly. Perilite can be
substituted for the sand. I've also added such things as chopped pine
needles to my soil, which helps to make it more acidic, which most CPs
prefer. Another option I've had success with (although more expensive) is
dried long-fiber
sphagnum moss (in my experience, Darlingtonia grows well only in long-fiber
sphagnum). I've also heard that live sphagnum
moss is very good for some plants.
Peat
moss is readily available in large bales for around US$4.00. I've found
white silica sand in 100 lb bags at a local home improvement store called
Sutherland's that caters more to contractors and construction people for about
US$5.00. Dried long-fiber sphagnum moss can be difficult to find
locally. Often, nurseries will sell "green moss" or "sheet moss," which is
not suitable for CPs. I've found it (locally) sold as "orchid moss" or
packaged for fisherman to store their worms in. I've also bought it on the
web from Calwest
Orchid Supplies for a reasonable price.
Potting. Plastic pots with drainage
holes are the best. They're usually not the prettiest options (much to the
annoyance of my wife), but they work better than clay pots. Sitting them
in extra-deep water saucers will make it easier to keep them wet. I prefer
using a long plastic window-box type pot, about 3 feet long, and growing lots of
plants together. It makes them easier to water and care for, although the
pot can get a bit heavy.
Humidity. Most CPs grow in very humid
environments. Salt Lake City is not very humid! During the
summer, relative humidity usually averages between about 35-40% at night and
10-20% during the day. I do several things which I hope increase the
humidity around my plants. First of all, I have a healthy lawn and garden,
which should improve the local microclimate. Also, I try not to put my
plants in windy locations. And spraying the surrounding area (not the
plants!) with the hose helps, especially on the hottest days.
I
only grow a couple of Nepenthes, but the only thing I've been able to do for
them to achieve high enough humidity (when not grown in a greenhouse) is to cover the whole plant with a large
clear plastic bag (when grown under lights). It's not pretty, but
it works.
Feeding/Fertilizer. CPs usually catch plenty of
bugs on their own, especially when grown outside. You can give them the
occasional bug, but don’t overdo it.
And never feed them anything like hamburger! I’ve
experimented with weak foliar fertilizers on seedlings, and while it may have helped a bit, I find they grow best when allowed to catch insects.
Dormancy. Although I've listed this
topic last, failure to provide a dormant period caused me to lose all the
pitcher plants I initially tried. Sarracenia need a "rest" period each year,
similar to trees stopping growth during the winter. If they do not get this rest
period, they will become progressively weaker until they die. For plants being
grown outside in a bog, simply mulch them with a good layer of pine needles and
nature takes care of it. For plants grown under lights, gradually reduce the
light period to about 7 or 8 hours a day, and keep them in a cool spot. Another
option is to keep them on a cold windowsill, or move them into a cool garage for
two or three months. Overall, I find it difficult to maintain plants
dormant inside, with my Sarracenia usually sending up flowers by the end of
January, but it seems to be enough.
Other online sources of
information I have found helpful:
The
Carnivorous Plant FAQ
Niagara
Exotics (formerly Cherryhill CP)
Botanique Nursery
Best
Carnivorous Plants (pygmy Drosera)
The International Carnivorous Plant
Society homepage
Los Angeles Carnivorous Plant Society webpage
Carnivorous Plants of the Gulf
Coast
Carnivorous
Plant database
Meadowview
Biological Research Station
Carnivorous
Plant Listserv
Carnivorous Plant
Listserv - past archives
Carnivorous
Plants of Western Australia
Uhaul North
Carolina CPs
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Last updated: January 8, 2004.
since January 1, 2002.
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