The story goes that Senius and Aschio, sons
of Remus, fled Rome in search of peace and
founded a castle in Tuscany that became Siena.
There is little remaining Roman influence today
apart from the wolf symbol that is prominent in
the city's emblems. Siena is a city of gothic
art and architecture, built of red-gold "burnt
sienna" bricks and surrounded by what Virginia
Woolf called "the lovliest of all landscapes,"
Tuscany. It is famous for its language, for its
Asian-tasting sweets like panforte and ricciarelli
and for the Palio, a barebacked horse race that
provides a year-long undercurrent of tension to an
otherwise gentle, dreamy city.
The
city's past is not a peaceful
one. For
hundreds of years, Ghibelline Siena was the sworn and
violent enemy of Guelf Florence. In nearby medieval
eval and Renaissance towns like San Gimignano, Montepulciano,
and Montalcino constant battles were fought between the two
city-states. Siena's greatest victory is still celebrated
today as a glorius event.
In 1287, "Nine Good Men," chosen from the middle class
to rule the city were responsible for a 70-year period
of great prosperity and artistic achievement. Most of
the work on Siena's magnificent duomo, begun in the
late 12th century, was completed during this time,
including the astonishing black-and-white striped,
mosque-like interior. Even more successful was
the development of Siena's central square, the
Campo, into one of the most magical city centers in
Italy. Entered through narrow, covered archways,
the square slopes inwards like the hub of a giant
wheel. The mellow brick paving is divided into
nine spokes symbolizing the nine good men. At the
center is the elegant and much copied Palazzo Pubblico.
Its graceful belltower of 503 steps soars into the air.
During the build up to the Palio, the bell rings
methodically and rhymically like the city's heart
beat until minutes before the race begins.
from Leslie Forbe's A Table in Tuscany,1985
The Palio is a horse race held twice a year--July 2
in honor of the local Madonna of Provenzano and August
16 in honor of the Assumption of the Virgin. But to call
the Palio just another horse race is akin to calling
Everest just another mountain. The Palio is blood and
hysteria. It is long-standing rivalry and medieval pageant.
Depending on who you listen to, it is "the world's wackiest
horse race" or "the world's crookedest horse race." However,
one describes it, there is no doubt that it is the heart
and soul of Siena, for the Palio lasts one minute, but this
minute is the culmination of a whole year's hopes and prepar-
ations.
Feasts and processions featuring spectacular flag-waving
the day before the race. More processions are held on the day
of the race, and each horse is taken to a church where it
is solemnly blessed. The Palio itself begins with an ela-
borate procession in the Campo, in which the quasi-totemic
symbols of the individual contrade, the city, and the glorious
history of the Republic are presented.
The race is three times around the Piazza del Campo in the
center of the city. Ten jockeys, or fantini, ride bareback
horses. They represent ten contrade, or city wards. The course
is challenging and the rules make it more so. For example, because
there isn't enough room at the starting line for the ten horses
to stand side by side,nine stand at the starting line behind the
canapo, the starting rope, while the tenth horse, the rincorsa, stands
further back. The rincorsa begins the race before the other horses, so
is at full gallop by the time the canapo is dropped for the other horses
to start. Some of the turns are hair raising. One is a right-angle
turn that has caused the death of many fantini and broken legs for
many horses. Adding to the excitement is the rule that jockeys can
beat other horses and each other with their whips, made of calf
phalluses.
The winning horse is the first to cross the finish line with
its head ornament in tact. The prize is a silk banner, or palio,
which derives from the Latin word "pallium." After the race ,
the winning contradaioli rush to claim the palio banner from the
judges and carry it joyously back to their contrada. That night
there is a victory dinner and parades all the next day. Not
only does the winner get to exult at the parade, the losers express
the shame of defeat. The losers come in two types: First, the horse
and contrada that came in second (If you come in second, you had the
opportunity to win, but didn't. This is much more shameful than
coming in last.) and the prime enemy contrada of the winner.
In the weeks and months that follow the Palio, there are more
feasts, including one at which the winning horse is the guest
of honor.